During a recent trip to Spain and Portugal, I was reintroduced to some amazing Madeira Wine and thought I would share some information about it.
Madeira wine is a fortified wine produced on the Portuguese island of Madeira, in the North Atlantic Ocean. It is made in a variety of styles ranging from dry wines which can be consumed on their own as an apéritif, to sweet wines usually consumed with dessert. The wine is noted for its unique winemaking process which involves oxidizing the wine through heat and ageing, resulting in a wine that is very long-lived in the bottle.
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Origins and History
The origins of Madeira wine date back to the Age of Exploration, when Madeira was a regular port of call for ships traveling to the East Indies. To prevent the wine from spoiling, local vintners began adding neutral grape spirits. The intense heat in the holds of the ships had a transforming effect on the wine, as discovered by Madeira producers when one shipment was returned to the island after a long trip. The customer was found to prefer the taste of this style of wine, and Madeira labeled as “vinho da roda” (wines that have made a round trip) became very popular.
Madeira wine was a favorite of Thomas Jefferson, and it was used to toast the Declaration of Independence. George Washington, Alexander Hamilton, Benjamin Franklin, and John Adams are also said to have appreciated the qualities of Madeira.
Production Process
Madeira wine is produced using a unique process that involves heating the wine and exposing it to oxygen, which gives it its distinctive flavor and remarkable longevity. There are two main methods of heating the wine: the estufagem process, which uses artificial heat, and the canteiro process, which relies on natural heat. The estufagem process involves storing the wine in large wooden casks in a specially designed room outfitted with steam-producing tanks or pipes that heat the room, creating a type of sauna. The canteiro process is used for the highest quality Madeiras, where the wines are aged without the use of any artificial heat, being stored by the winery in warm rooms that are heated only by the warm climate of the Madeira island.
Grape Varieties and Styles
Madeira wine is made from several grape varieties, each contributing to the wine’s unique flavor profile. The four major white grape varieties used for Madeira production are:
- Sercial: The driest style, characterized by high acidity and almond flavors.
- Verdelho: A medium-dry style with smokey notes and high acidity.
- Bual (Boal): A medium-rich style with dark color, medium-rich texture, and raisin flavors.
- Malvasia (Malmsey): The sweetest style, characterized by dark color, rich texture, and coffee-caramel flavors
A fifth noble grape, Terrantez, almost became extinct on the island but has been making a comeback. Its style ranges in sweetness from that of Verdelho to that of Bual.
Iconic Wineries
Several iconic wineries continue to produce Madeira wine, preserving the traditional methods and flavors:
- Blandy’s Wine Lodge: Founded in 1811, this prestigious house is one of the oldest in Madeira, recognized for its exceptional vintages and ancestral know-how. (This is a winery I visited in Portugal and enjoyed the ambiance and tasting).
- Henriques & Henriques: Since 1850, this family house has produced refined Madeira wines, combining tradition and modernity for exceptional creations.
- Vinhos Barbeito: Advocating innovation and excellence, this renowned house offers bold and contemporary vintages while preserving the authentic character of Madeira wine.
Madeira Wine in Texas
Texas has embraced the production of Madeira-style wines, with several wineries crafting their own interpretations:
- Haak Vineyards & Winery: Located in Santa Fe, Texas, Haak Vineyards & Winery is known for producing Madeira-style wines using locally sourced grapes. Their Blanc du Bois Madeira is filled with flavors of apricots, peaches with a soft hint of honey, caramel, and toffee. They also produce a Jacquez Madeira, made from locally sourced Black Spanish grapes, which harbors more balsamic characteristics, with hints of prune, coffee, and cocoa.
- Llano Estacado Winery: Based in Lubbock, Texas, Llano Estacado Winery offers “Mad-Ira,” a Madeira-style dessert wine crafted with 100% Verdelho grapes. This wine showcases rich, nutty flavors intertwined with notes of dried fruits, caramel, and a hint of spice.
These Texas wineries have adapted the traditional Madeira wine-making techniques to local conditions, creating unique wines that pay homage to the classic Madeira style while incorporating regional characteristics.
Conclusion
Madeira wine, with its rich history and unique production process, continues to captivate wine enthusiasts around the world. Its resilience and adaptability have allowed it to thrive for centuries, and its influence has reached as far as Texas, where local wineries are crafting their own interpretations of this timeless wine. Whether enjoyed in its traditional form from the island of Madeira or through the innovative expressions found in Texas, Madeira wine offers a complex and enduring experience for the palate.
About the Author
A native of Texas, Ken “Texan” Pierce is a renowned alcohol aficionado with decades of experience in the Texas wine, whiskey, and beer industry. With a vast number of alcohol production resources right in his back yard in the Texas Hill Country, Ken has made it his mission to promote and advance the Texas winemaking, distilling, and brewing industry across the country. Ken holds certifications from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET) for wine and is a Certified Texas Wine Ambassador. His ability to identify tasting notes and pairings makes him a respected authority within alcohol enthusiast circles. When he’s not reviewing the latest craft spirits, you can find Ken playing his guitar, trying to sing, and sipping on a Texas libation.