In this fourth part of My Amazing Bourbon Trail Road Trip, we head from Nashville, TN to Louisville, KY where we formally hit The Bourbon Trail. In case you missed them, check out the previous posts here:
My Amazing Bourbon Trail Road Trip – Part 1
My Amazing Bourbon Trail Road Trip – Part 2
My Amazing Bourbon Trail Road Trip – Part 3
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So, let’s first talk about The Bourbon Trail and why it is so awesome. The Bourbon Trail, nestled in the heart of Kentucky, is a legendary journey through the rich history and craftsmanship of America’s native spirit, bourbon whiskey.
This scenic trail winds through picturesque landscapes and small towns, connecting some of the oldest and most renowned distilleries in the world. The history of the Bourbon Trail dates back to the late 18th century when early settlers, primarily of Scots-Irish descent, brought their distilling traditions to the fertile Bluegrass region.
Over the centuries, these pioneers perfected the art of bourbon-making, leading to the establishment of iconic distilleries such as Maker’s Mark, Jim Beam, and Woodford Reserve.
Today, visitors to the Bourbon Trail can explore the intricate processes of distillation, aging, and bottling while savoring the unique flavors that have made Kentucky bourbon a symbol of American heritage and craftsmanship.
The Kentucky Bourbon Trail features a total of 46 distilleries as of 2024. This includes both the main trail and the Kentucky Bourbon Trail Craft Tour, which highlights smaller, artisanal distilleries.
When the trail was first established in 1999, it had only seven distilleries, but it has since grown significantly to become a comprehensive journey through Kentucky’s rich bourbon heritage. This expansion allows visitors to explore a wide variety of distilleries, from historic names like Jim Beam and Maker’s Mark to newer, innovative craft distilleries.
We start our journey of The Bourbon Trail with our hotel selection: Hotel Distil.
Staying at the Hotel Distil in Louisville, Kentucky, was an unforgettable experience. The moment I walked into the lobby I was struck by the elegant, modern design that seamlessly blended with the building’s historic charm. My room was a perfect sanctuary, boasting luxurious bedding, a spacious bathroom, and a stunning view of the city. One of the highlights was the hotel’s on-site restaurant, Repeal, where I indulged in a delicious steak dinner paired with a meticulously crafted bourbon cocktail. The service was impeccable, and the staff went out of their way to ensure my stay was comfortable and enjoyable. Being right on Whiskey Row, I was also only steps away from some of the best bourbon distilleries and cultural attractions Louisville has to offer.
The Hotel Distil celebrates the repeal of Prohibition with a unique nightly ritual. At 7:33 p.m., reflecting the year 1933 when Prohibition ended, guests gather in the lobby for a toast. Each guest receives a ‘prescription card’ at check-in, inviting them to partake in this celebration. The event includes a complimentary whiskey cocktail and a tribute to the historic moment. This tradition adds a special touch to the guest experience, honoring the rich bourbon heritage of the region.
We arrived early afternoon at the hotel, got situated in our room, and then headed out for a nice walk down Main Street, aka “Whiskey Row”. We found several interesting points of interest, like the huge gold statue of David on the side of the road at an intersection.
As we made our way down the road, we decided to stop at Michter’s Fort Nelson Distillery.
Michter’s is across the street from the Louisville Slugger Museum & Bat Factory (you can’t miss the five-story baseball bat leaning against the building) and down the block from the Frazier History Museum, the designated Kentucky Bourbon Trail Welcome Center.
Walking into the bar at Michter’s Distillery Fort Nelson was like stepping back in time. The atmosphere was a perfect blend of historic charm and modern elegance.
As I settled in at the upstairs bar, I couldn’t help but admire the beautifully restored interior, with its rich woodwork and vintage decor. We were brought water and small bowls of nuts and dried fruit.
The waiter recommended a flight of Michter’s finest (the Michter’s Bourbon Flight at $35), each pour more exquisite than the last. Sipping on these exceptional bourbons while overlooking Whiskey Row was an experience I’ll cherish forever. The flight consisted of the US*1, the US*1 Barrel Strength, the 10-year, and Bomberger’s Declaration (small batch, 108 proof, limited quantities). My favorite? The 10-year Kentucky Straight Bourbon. Why? Probably because my taste always leads me to the bourbons that are the hardest to acquire!
After Michter’s, we ate dinner at the Mussels and Burger Bar
and continued our walk down Whiskey Row so I could get a lay of the land for day 2.
Day 2 of exploration of the Bourbon Trail was done completely on foot. I raked in almost 15,000 steps according to my smart watch, so it was good exercise too! I started the day with a long walk past Michter’s from the day before to the Frazier History Museum, the designated Kentucky Bourbon Trail Welcome Center and official starting spot of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail.
The Frazier History Museum is a cultural gem that offers an immersive exploration of American history with a focus on Kentucky’s unique heritage. Located on the historic Whiskey Row, the museum features a wide array of exhibits, including artifacts from early American history, the Civil War, and the bourbon industry. Interactive displays, performances, and educational programs engage visitors of all ages, making history accessible and entertaining.
The museum also houses the Kentucky Bourbon Trail Welcome Center, introducing the state’s famous bourbon culture. With its diverse exhibits and engaging storytelling, the Frazier History Museum serves as a vibrant hub for learning and exploration in Louisville.
Leaving the Frazier History Museum, I walked a short distance to the Evan Williams’ Bourbon Experience on Whiskey Row.
The Evan Williams Bourbon Experience offers a comprehensive and engaging exploration of bourbon history and production. As the first distillery to return to Whiskey Row since Prohibition, it features an artisanal distillery where visitors can see the bourbon-making process firsthand. The experience includes historical exhibits, a Prohibition-themed speakeasy, and tastings of premium bourbons. Reservations are recommended, but I was able to slip in without one.
One of the highlights is the ON3 Bar, located on the third floor. This stylish cocktail bar offers expertly crafted bourbon cocktails in a sophisticated setting. The bar is a perfect place to unwind after a tour, featuring signature drinks made with Evan Williams bourbon, such as the Evan Sour.
The bar’s ambiance, combined with the rich history and high-quality bourbon, provides a memorable experience for both bourbon enthusiasts and casual visitors.
After I finished my “bar time” at the On3 bar, I browsed the store and found a great gift for a friend, and ended up buying a nice bottle of the Master’s Collection as it is produced in limited quantities and is only available at the distillery.
Leaving Evan Williams, I headed next (on foot of course) to Old Forester, which is probably less than 100 yards from Hotel Distil.
I had a reservation as they are recommended for the tour. This was by far my favorite tour of the day which was unexpected.
Walking into the Old Forester Distillery on Whiskey Row felt like stepping into a piece of living history. The tour began with a captivating introduction to the brand’s rich heritage, dating back to 1870, and learning about all the different bourbons they have or do still produce.
As we moved through the facility, the gleaming copper stills and the aroma of fermenting grains filled the air, creating an intoxicating atmosphere. The highlight was witnessing the entire production process, from the mashing of grains to the bottling of the final product, including a participatory exercise for one person in our group of charring a whiskey barrel – something not done in any of the tours I attended on this trip.
The guide’s passion and knowledge brought every detail to life, making the experience both educational and entertaining.
Ending the tour with a tasting in the elegant tasting room, I savored the nuanced flavors of Old Forester’s bourbon, appreciating the craftsmanship and tradition that go into every bottle.
It was an unforgettable journey into the heart of bourbon-making. My favorite was the Old Forester’s 1910. It was also the first time I had heard of “the Modjeska”, a delightful confection consisting of marshmallow dipped in caramel. It was served with the tasting as these are designed to complement your bourbon tasting experience. You can buy them here: Old Forester Modjeska’s.
After leaving Old Forester, I dropped off my recent purchases in my room at the hotel as I was passing by it anyway for my next tour. I took the time to relax for a little while, then began my journey to the other end of Whiskey Row to Angel’s Envy Distillery, which is across the street from Louisville Slugger Field.
Touring the Angel’s Envy Distillery was an extraordinary experience that perfectly blended history, craftsmanship, and modern innovation. “Angel’s Envy” is a term rooted in bourbon lore, somewhat related to the portion of whiskey that evaporates during the aging process in barrels, traditionally called the “angel’s share.” As the bourbon ages, a small amount evaporates through the wood barrels, believed to be the portion taken by angels.
The term “Angel’s Envy” plays on this concept, suggesting that the finished product is so exquisite that it causes envy even among the angels who sampled the evaporated share. The name embodies the distillery’s commitment to producing high-quality bourbon with a unique finishing process in port wine barrels, which adds distinctive flavors to their whiskey.
As soon as I entered the beautifully restored building on Whiskey Row, I was struck by the elegance and attention to detail. The tour began with an insightful overview of the distillery’s origins and the Henderson family’s legacy. Walking through the production areas, I was fascinated by the sight of the gleaming copper stills and the meticulous process of bourbon-making, especially the unique finishing in port wine barrels that gives Angel’s Envy its distinctive flavor.
The tour guide’s enthusiasm was infectious, and their deep knowledge made every part of the process intriguing. The highlight was, of course, the tasting session in the sleek, modern tasting room where I savored the rich, complex flavors of their bourbon. This tour offered a perfect mix of education, history, and sensory delight, making it a must-visit for any bourbon aficionado.
Angel’s Envy bourbon was one of the first to be “finished” and was challenged for its right to call its spirit a bourbon because of it. In bourbon production, “finishing” refers to the process of transferring the distilled spirit from its primary aging barrel into another barrel for an additional period. This secondary barrel has typically been used to age another type of alcohol, such as wine, sherry, port, or rum. The purpose of this finishing process is to impart additional flavors and complexities to the bourbon that are characteristic of the previous contents of the secondary barrel.
For example, in the case of Angel’s Envy, after the initial aging in new charred oak barrels, the bourbon is transferred to port wine barrels for a finishing period. This process adds unique notes of fruit, spice, and sweetness to the bourbon, creating a more complex and layered flavor profile.
Finishing is a technique borrowed from Scotch whisky production and has become increasingly popular in the bourbon industry. It allows distillers to experiment with different flavor profiles and offer distinctive products that stand out in the market.
At the end of my tour and tasting, I headed back to the Angel’s Envy store and picked up my personalized, etched bottle of Angel’s Envy I had pre-ordered.
With bottle in tow, I made my way back to the Hotel Distil to meet up with my wife who had been doing her own exploration of Louisville for the day. We walked down the road to Patrick O’Shea’s Irish Pub for a nice dinner and drinks.
Along our Louisville journey we encountered several painted fiberglass horse statues. Gallopalooza, Louisville’s public art project, features over 500 vibrantly painted fiberglass horse statues, a community beautification initiative that began in 2004. These statues celebrate the city’s rich equestrian heritage and are part of the city’s Sidewalk Derby. Gallopalooza has grown in popularity and significance, with the most recent event displaying 150 new horse statues around Louisville, marking the 150th Kentucky Derby celebration. These statues are located throughout the city, including downtown, business districts, and residential areas, making them accessible for both locals and tourists to enjoy.
These are akin to my own hometown San Marcos’ mermaid statues. The mermaid statues in San Marcos, Texas, are part of a vibrant public art initiative called the Mermaid March, which celebrates the city’s cultural and natural heritage. The history of these statues is deeply tied to the iconic Aquarena Springs amusement park, which operated from the 1950s to the 1990s and was famous for its underwater mermaid performances. After the park’s closure, the city sought to preserve this whimsical legacy, leading to the creation of the Mermaid Society in 2014. This organization spearheaded efforts to revitalize the mermaid theme through public art.
In 2016, the San Marcos Arts Commission launched the Mermaid March, featuring ten seven-foot-tall mermaid statues painted by local artists. These statues, funded by the Arts Commission and coordinated by the Mermaid Society SMTX, are scattered throughout downtown San Marcos, each representing different aspects of the city’s unique identity, from local history to natural beauty. The initiative not only beautifies the city but also promotes local culture and environmental stewardship, aligning with the city’s designation as the Mermaid Capital of Texas in 2021
Note that while there are only ten mermaid statues, there are over 500 horse statues in Louisville. Try to visit them all!
Next Up: My Amazing Bourbon Trail Road Trip – Part 5.
About the Author
A native of Texas, Ken “Texan” Pierce is a renowned alcohol aficionado with decades of experience in the Texas wine, whiskey, and beer industry. With a vast number of alcohol production resources right in his back yard in the Texas Hill Country, Ken has made it his mission to promote and advance the Texas winemaking, distilling, and brewing industry across the country. Ken holds certifications from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET) for wine and is a Certified Texas Wine Ambassador. His ability to identify tasting notes and pairings makes him a respected authority within alcohol enthusiast circles. When he’s not reviewing the latest craft spirits, you can find Ken playing his guitar, trying to sing, and sipping on a Texas libation.
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